A Beginner’s Guide to Durian

Few things are as uniquely Southeast Asian as the durian. Famously banned from most hotels and public transport throughout the Southeast Asian region, the ‘King of Fruits’ is best known for its distinctive odour.

It’s beautifully fragrant to some, yet overpowering and repulsive to others.

Insider Tip: In Singapore, most Durians are of Malaysian origin, with their peak season running from June to August. Thai durians are also imported and their season runs slightly earlier, from March to May.

The name ‘durian’ comes from the Malay word for thorn, duri, named for the fruit’s thorn-covered husk.

A large fruit, it can grow up to 30 centimetres long and 15 centimetres in diameter, and typically weighs one to three kilos. Inside the prickly, green shell, is a bed of white pith, embedded in which you’ll find several lumps of yellow edible flesh.

Scoop out the flesh and suck on the stone within, and decide for yourself whether you are in the “love it” or “hate it” camp – there generally is no in between with durian. 

Fun Fact: Esplanade Theatre on the Bay in the Marina Bay area of Singapore is nicknamed “The Durian” thanks to its spiky exterior. These spikes are actually aluminium sun shades, designed to let in just enough light, while blocking out the tropical heat.

One thing everyone does seem to agree on however, is that the taste is ‘indescribable’.

One famous description often quoted is that of British Naturalist Alfred Russel Wallace, who in 1856 wrote:

“A rich custard highly flavoured with almonds gives the best general idea of it, but there are occasional wafts of flavour that call to mind cream-cheese, onion-sauce, sherry-wine, and other incongruous dishes.”

If that leaves you none the wiser, then you’ll have to judge for yourself, but take a warning from the late American food and travel writer/broadcaster Anthony Bourdain.

Despite being a fan of the fruit, he was less than complimentary when he commented during a visit to Indonesia for his No Reservations programme:

“Your breath will smell as if you’ve been French-kissing your dead grandmother”.

There are several different variants of durian (Malaysia alone claims more than 200).

They come with names such as Musang King aka Mao Shan Wang (Cat Mountain King), Hong Xia (Red Prawn), Mon Thong (Golden Pillow), or simple numbers such as D24, D1, D13 and D100.

All types vary in colour, texture and flavour, and as with lovers of wine, tea or cheese, all connoisseurs have their own personal favourites.

The traditional area associated with eating durian in Singapore is Geylang (Singapore’s infamous red-light district).

Here, the stalls along Sims Avenue (between Geylang Lorongs 11 and 19 – take the MRT to EW9 Alijunied) are piled high with the prickly pungent fruit.

We like Durian Culture at number 77 Sims Avenue.

Alternatively, head further along Geylang Road to either of the following options. Both are renowned for serving up some of the best durian in Singapore.

• Durian SG Prime at number 456 Geylang Road or
• Durian 36 at 608 Geylang Road.

Don’t want to travel too far outside of the main tourist zones?

Check out HengBros Durian in the heart of Chinatown at 531 Upper Cross Street. Or try 227 Katong Durian at number 227 East Coast Road.

This food experience doesn’t come cheap. You can expect to pay in the region of $25-35 per kilo for a popular Mao Shan Wang and around $15 per kilo for a Hong Xia (Red Prawn), depending on supply and demand.

Lesser varieties are available at more pocket-friendly prices of a few dollars per fruit… but as with most things in life, connoisseurs will tell you that you get what you pay for.